“Wear comfortable sneakers. Hiking boots are best.” An acquaintance who was to visit Sayuwon with me gave me this advice the day before we left. It was the first place I wanted to travel to after returning from a long stay in Japan. I chose Sayuwon, nestled deep in the forests of Gunwi, North Gyeongsang Province, as the first destination for this walk in Daegu. I had also heard that it is a place locals frequently visit for outings, as it is only a 40-minute drive from downtown Daegu.

On a clear late autumn morning, I arrived at Sayuwon after a full four-hour drive from Seoul. It is an arboretum built by Taechang Steel Chairman Yoo Jae-sung on a mountainside in Gunwi spanning 100,000 pyeong (330,000 square meters). Taechang Steel is a leading mid-sized company in Daegu engaged in the distribution and processing of steel materials. Since it was built by a steel company, I wondered how magnificent the architecture would be; my heart swelled with anticipation for the scenery that would unfold before my eyes with every step I took into the forest. And rightly so, as I had heard that buildings designed by architects Álvaro Siza , Seung Hyo-sang , and Choi Wook would suddenly appear right before my eyes at unexpected moments.

True to its name, which signifies a space for quiet contemplation, there is no set course. You are simply meant to walk freely, at your own pace, feeling the flow of the wind and the movement of the trees. The first places we visited were 'Sodae,' which offers a distant view of the Sayuwon landscape, and 'Soyoheon,' a narrow, unadorned V-shaped structure . Sodae, where simply gazing at the beautiful mountain scenery was enough to open up my heart, reminded me that the place where we stood was a truly rare and special space. Soyoheon was particularly impressive for the grandeur created by the spatial sequence; designed to sit low into the ground, the space gave a peculiar feeling of being naturally drawn into nature rather than displaying a massive presence of its own. Strangely enough, the phrase 'Void' kept floating in my mind . It felt as if the building was creating a vast empty space within my heart. It was not just the simple exterior; I was amazed by his sense of weaving a poetic landscape through appropriate proportions and forms.

Looking up, I saw the blue sky and clouds drifting leisurely through the window formed by the concrete mass. Like a painting moving within a frame, the changing appearance of nature over time brought a sense of peace just by watching it. Above all, what I liked most about this place was that chairs were placed here and there so one could rest whenever they felt like it. After wandering through the space, I sat down on a chair like someone with nothing to do and quietly listened. Before I knew it, the empty space was filled with the sounds of birds and dry leaves rustling on the trees. Sounds that had always been there but which I usually failed to notice. The afternoon light streamed into them, dancing a languid and slow dance. With the ever-changing sunlight and shadows creating dramatic scenes , this place seemed to remind me that nature is the very finishing touch that completes a space. “Architects create nothing. They merely transform reality.” The words of Álvaro Siza, who designed this place, linger in my ears. It occurred to me that the empty space here, created by nature and architecture, might not exist solely for the sake of profound meditation, but might instead be subtly telling us not to forget the value of the things we easily overlook in our daily lives.

Meanwhile, on the northern peak of Sayuwon, there is a space of silence called 'Myeongjeong .' It is a place designed by architect Seung Hyo-sang solely for meditation. As you descend the steep stairs between deep concrete walls resembling a valley, you feel as if you are slowly sinking downwards, only to soon come face-to-face with a wide-open stage-like space and a wall where water flows down before your eyes. From the composition of the circulation path, the techniques of the materials, and the harmony of the red color accents, I was struck by an impression of a peculiar blend of East and West. In particular, the 'Water Temple' on Awaji Island and the DT Suzuki Museum in Kanazawa, which I visited during an architectural tour of Tadao Ando while living in Japan, flashed through my mind; meanwhile, the columns, intense color contrasts, and linear proportions of the Palais Royal in Paris seemed to overlap strangely with it. The only things flowing in this tranquil space were the sound of water and the leisurely autumn breeze. Looking at the 'Moon Jar' by artist Choi Jae-hoon placed in the center, I felt as though the impurities of my mind were being cleansed, even if only for a moment. It was a space that made me realize once again that the wordless time I once leisurely spent in Tokyo was also time that was absolutely necessary for me at some point in life.

In addition to this, the five ponds located in the deepest valley of the arboretum, the long structure 'Wasa' connecting the ponds, and the elegant and pure form of 'Naesimnakwon' were also impressive; however, what truly surprised me at Sayuwon was not the architecture itself. Rather, it was about how it harmonized with nature and how it humbled itself to allow nature to stand out. Designs imbued with respect and consideration for nature—such as drilling holes in the building to allow the trees to pass through naturally instead of cutting them down (Wasa), providing shelters for birds in places inaccessible to people (Josa), or creating small resting areas throughout the arboretum for animals to quench their thirst and rest—were small yet delicate details and clues that revealed what Sayuwon aims for.

When I faced the expansive garden 'Pungseol Gicheonnyeon,' I finally realized what Sayuwon ultimately aims to convey. Planted with 108 quince trees that have withstood the elements for centuries, this garden is actually where Sayuwon began. It is said that the foundation of Sayuwon was formed about 30 years ago when the founder collected 300-year-old quince trees one by one that were about to be smuggled out to Japan. Landscape architects Jeong Young-seon and Matsunobu Kawagishi then meticulously designed and cultivated the garden to bring it to its current state. Bathed in the autumn sunlight, the garden shimmered dazzlingly, and it was far too inadequate to be captured in a photograph. Walking through this surreal landscape, I felt a sense of profound awe and grandeur. This is because it is something that cannot be achieved with money alone. I was truly amazed by the fact that nature is what one person’s philosophy and conviction have protected and nurtured with such time and devotion, and by the founder’s boldness to present moments of inspiration and comfort to many through this. Hearing the story of him collecting not only quince trees but also many other precious trees, I wondered if there could be a more future-oriented form of luxury. Come to think of it, Sayuwon is truly a space that embodies the true spirit of noblesse oblige.

Suddenly, looking up at the sky, I saw the sun slowly setting toward sunset. Four hours had flown by in the blink of an eye. I walked down the steep mountain path with a heart full of emotion. Fields of silver grass swaying in the breeze, the red berries of the holly, healthy green moss covering the stones, glistening dew on the leaves... Most of the fair and beautiful luxuries one can enjoy in life are found on the road. Things that can be fully embraced within me if I take the time to look around. Breathing in the scent of burning fallen leaves wafting from somewhere in the forest, I thus cross another season.

Private garden

A place that bills itself as a 'monastery for modern people.' Flowers, trees, and architecture form a garden where contemplation takes place together.

1150, Chisanhyoryeong-ro, Bugye-myeon, Gunwi-gun, Gyeongbuk

@sayuwon  

Namcheon Old House

Built around 1836 in Hanbam Village, North Gyeongsang Province, it is the oldest traditional house in Gunwi County. Unlike other Hanok villages, it has a natural and tranquil atmosphere.

Daeyul-ri, Bugye-myeon, Gunwi-gun, Gyeongbuk

Official website

In fact, there aren't many accommodations worth staying in Gunwi. An acquaintance accompanying me recommended Namcheon Gotaek, saying there was at least one place worth visiting . It turned out to be a place I had seen several times on social media. As the oldest house in Gunwi-gun, it is designated as Gyeongsangbuk-do Folk Cultural Heritage No. 164. It is a Hanok with a square-shaped structure, and its unique feature is the stone wall path that forms the boundary of the house, reminiscent of a quiet village on Jeju Island. Since it is run by an elderly couple, there is no systematic reservation system or conveniently renovated modern facilities, but I spent a sufficiently comfortable night without any major inconveniences. I took photos again and again because the traditional fireplace still remaining on one side, various small tools including a A-frame carrier, the large persimmon tree commonly seen in country houses, and the rows of earthenware jars filled with soybean paste and chili paste were so charming and fascinating. On the day of our arrival, the landlady, who had just finished making kimchi, said she was tired and offered to prepare a simple dinner. The cod soup, packed with fresh cod, along with pumpkin pancakes, kimchi, and a few side dishes, were all so delicious that I polished off a bowl of rice in no time. We warmed our weary bodies by the scorching floor and drank wine until late into the night.

Lee Min-kyung

She worked as a fashion editor for the magazines *Style H* and *Instyle * , and in content marketing at Hyundai Card. Drawing on the sensibilities she accumulated over her long career as a magazine editor, she wrote the book *Tokyo Curation*, which views the city of Tokyo as a brand and explores it through a multi-layered perspective. This substantial book of approximately 500 pages contains in-depth landscapes observed while she spent six years in Tokyo. Just as the book's opening sentence states, "There are landscapes that can only be seen once you enter," the author unfolds the moments she actually encountered and experienced through extensive research via her own unique lens, exploring attitudes toward life through inspirations both big and small found in everyday life.