Looking at the historical sites dating back to the prehistoric era remaining in Cheongju, it is by no means an exaggeration that the scholar Yi Jung-hwan described Cheongju in his book *Taekriji* as “the best place to live in Joseon.” The landscape of the Cheongju area, featuring Uamsan Mountain towering to the east of Cheongju and Bumosan Mountain, which is said to have played the role of parents to the people of Cheongju during the Manchu Invasion, as well as the Mihogang and Musimcheon rivers and the vast plains stretching along them, represents the authenticity of the term “City of Life and Culture,” which is one of Cheongju City’s visions.

Looking at the relics and records from the prehistoric era remaining in Cheongju, the description of Cheongju as “the best place to live in Joseon” in the *Taekriji* by the Silhak scholar Yi Jung-hwan is by no means an exaggeration.

Historical records of Cheongju from the Samhan period to the Goryeo period

Through artifacts and records, one can imagine the ancient appearance of Cheongju and the role it played throughout different eras. One such artifact dates back to the Samhan period. During the Samhan era, the Giho region, centered around Cheongju, was controlled by the central power of Mahan. Consequently, the National Cheongju Museum houses unique Mahan pottery found nowhere else, along with highly intricately crafted bronze mirrors and bronze horse-shaped belts that demonstrate the status of this small state. Particularly during the Baekje period, this area was called 'Sangdang-hyeon ' and utilized as a strategic military stronghold to defend the Han River basin; the status of Cheongju at that time can be gauged from the artifacts displayed in the museum, while the culture of that era can be observed in archaeological sites such as the Sinbong-dong Tomb. Cheongju also served as the center of the Giho region for a long time following the Silla period. An example of this is the fact that during the reign of King Sinmun, five "mini-capitals" were established in various regions after Silla's unification; Cheongju was designated as 'Seowongyeong,' one of these cities . The people of Cheongju still frequently use this name today.

The region was named Cheongju when a Mok was established here during the Goryeo Dynasty . While Chungju, known as 'Jungwon -gyeong,' served as a central hub connecting the Gyeongsang region to the north along the Han River transportation route, Cheongju is where the western plains and coastal areas connect. It is also a key transportation hub on the southeastern-Gyeonggi connecting axis, linking the Sangju region through Boeun to the Giho and Gyeonggi regions.

At the National Cheongju Museum, along with Mahan pottery of unique shapes not found elsewhere, visitors can see highly elaborate bronze mirrors and bronze horse-shaped belts that demonstrate the status of the small kingdom.

The City of Fortresses, Sangdangsanseong and Jeongbuktoseong

The walls of Sangdangsanseong Fortress, which resemble a headband wrapped around Mt. Sangdang, have served as guardians protecting the people of Cheongju during times of crisis. Although it has existed since the time of the founding of Silla, it was renovated into its current form during the reigns of King Sukjo and King Yeongjo of the Joseon Dynasty. Sangdangsanseong Fortress is situated on the mountaintop not far from the entrance of the National Cheongju Museum. Despite the sloping terrain, a spacious plaza unfolds in front of the gate, boasting a refreshing view. A poem written by Kim Si-seup in the early Joseon period, who gazed blankly at the scenery at twilight, is inscribed on a large stone at the entrance to the grassy plaza. With a stone perimeter of 4.2 km, a height of 4 to 5 meters, and an area of 220,000 pyeong (720,000 square meters), its grandeur must have been a magnificent spectacle even in those days. There is another site that served as a key defensive and political stronghold in the Cheongju region during the Later Three Kingdoms period: Jeongbuktoseong, located in Jeongbuk-dong, Cheongwon-gu. Located in the plains near Kachine, where the Mihocheon and Musimcheon rivers in Cheongju merge, this site is a flatland earthen fortress, unlike Sangdangsanseong, and is recognized as the best-preserved earthen fortress among those currently in existence. It is estimated to have been first constructed around the 2nd or 3rd century during the early Three Kingdoms period. According to the *Sangdangsanseong Gogeum Sajeokgi *, there is a tradition that after Gungye built Sangdangsanseong in Cheongju and made it his capital, Gyeon Hwon occupied the fortress and built Jeongbuk Toseong in the surrounding area, that is, the present-day Jeongbuk-dong area.

A poem said to have been composed by Kim Si-seup in the early Joseon Dynasty while gazing blankly at twilight is engraved on a large stone at the entrance to the grassy plaza. With a circumference of 4.2 km and a height of 4 to 5 meters, its grandeur must have been a magnificent sight even in those days.

The Three Buddha Hall and the Seven Stone Buddhas of Yonghwasa Temple

Musimcheon Stream runs through the old town of Cheongju. Yonghwasa Temple is a Buddhist temple from the Unified Silla period located near Musimcheon Stream in Cheongju. It was built during the reign of Queen Seondeok, but after being destroyed by fire in the 6th year of King Injo's reign (1616), it was rebuilt by Seon Master Byeokdam in the 18th year of King Yeongjo's reign and named Yonghwasa. There is also a mysterious story related to its founding. It is said that just before the temple opened in the early 20th century, seven Buddhas appeared in the dream of Queen Eom, a concubine of King Gojong, while she was taking a nap. They pleaded, "We are in a difficult situation, so please build a large temple to save us," before disappearing into the western sky. Upon waking, Queen Eom conveyed this to King Gojong, who sent people to investigate. It is said that a large swamp to the west was found, and seven stone Buddha statues were buried within it. These are colossal statues, with the tallest reaching 5.5 meters and the smallest reaching 1.4 meters in height.

This temple was also a filming location for the Netflix drama *The Glory*, and the view of Yonghwasa Temple from Musimcheon Stream at sunset is truly "glorious." Looking at the stone Buddhas of Yonghwasa Temple, one is left wondering: "Why are there so many tall standing stone Buddha statues from the early Goryeo period in the Chungcheong region?" The Eunjin Maitreya in Nonsan, the stone Buddhas at the Mireuk-ri Temple Site in Chungju, and the Buddhas of Yonghwasa Temple—these make one realize that a regional pattern of early Goryeo Buddhist culture, which we are not well aware of, also existed in this Cheongju area.

Why are there so many tall standing stone Buddha statues from the early Goryeo period in the Chungcheong region? This suggests that a regional pattern of early Goryeo Buddhist culture, which is not well known to us, also existed in the Cheongju area.

Cheongju, a cultural city beyond what Jikji symbolizes

Jikji Simche Yojeol (hereinafter referred to as "Jikji") , the world's oldest metal movable type book, was produced at the Heungdeoksa Temple site in downtown Cheongju. At the Heungdeoksa Temple site, which was excavated in 1985, a small Dharma hall and a stone pagoda have been restored, and the Cheongju Ancient Printing Museum is located right next to it. Registered as a UNESCO Memory of the World, Jikji can be considered the greatest cultural heritage that best demonstrates the creativity of our people.

* Illustration | I imagined and drew the scene of Kim Si-seup of the Joseon Dynasty admiring the scenery as he watched the sunset over Sangdangsanseong Fortress at dusk.

External contributions to the Editorial Department are intended to provide a multifaceted perspective on local culture and industry and may differ from the views of the Editorial Department.

Writer. Bae Gi-dong

An archaeologist and museum expert. He served as President of the Korean Traditional Culture School, President of the Korean Society for Museum Education, and Director of the National Museum of Korea. He also served as Executive Commissioner of the Korean National Commission for UNESCO, Chairperson of the UNESCO Centre for International Understanding in Asia and the Pacific, Chairperson of the National Committee of the International Council of Museums (ICOMOS), and President of the Association of Museums in the Asia-Pacific Region. His publications include *Human Evolution and Paleolithic Culture in Asia* and *Museum Travelogue of Korea*.

Edit Areum Lee

Write Kidong Bae

Photograph Kidong Bae

Illustration by Yeji Yun