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Daegu

Snack food saves the world

Old Shop in the City (2) | Han Seok-dong

Although the 'Movement to Promote Mixed Grain Consumption' has become a fading memory, the people of Daegu's love for snacks shows no signs of cooling. Here are the stories of the snacks that became another reason to visit Daegu.

Edit Jihyun Cho

Photograph Sukdong Han

Illustration Thibaud Herem

โ€œLetโ€™s just grab a quick snack.โ€ When working, it is common to easily miss mealtime. It can happen when you are busy. However, I hate that phrase the most. Why treat my precious meal so lightly (I hate gaining weight from eating tasteless food the most), and isn't it also disrespectful to the snacks I love?


Bunsik . Literally meaning "food made from flour." There was a time during difficult times when people received wheat flour instead of rice to make and eat noodles or sujebi. Although living conditions have improved, bunsik has maintained its legacy and has become a dish enjoyed by people of all ages .


Tteokbokki with a seasoning so unique even a daughter-in-law doesn't know it, perfectly softened; gimbap that simply cannot be replicated at home; a broth with an inexplicably savory umami flavor (the name 'eomuk' just doesn't capture the true taste; it has to be 'oden'!); and even kalguksu served with generous hospitality. It is clear that this is not know-how acquired in a day or two. A masterpiece created without precise measurements, relying instead on the 'intuition' taught by time.


Although the 'Mixed Grain Food Promotion Campaign ,' a government-led national movement to improve dietary habits implemented in the 1960s to reduce rice consumption, has become a fading memory, the people of Daegu's love for snack foods shows no signs of waning. Not only are there rows of long-standing establishments passed down through generations, but there are also countless franchises that originated in Daegu and have spread across the nation. It is no wonder that there is a saying that Daegu ranks first in the country for flour and noodle consumption. Here are the stories of the snack foods that have become another reason to visit Daegu.


Suseong-gu's highly addictive taste, Yun Ok-yeon Halmae Tteokbokki



Yun Ok-yeon Grandma's Tteokbokki

The taste has been carried on for decades using the recipe of Ms. Yoon Ok-yeon, the first-generation representative and mother-in-law of Representative Byun In-ja. At an affordable price that is hard to find these days, you can fill your stomach for just a few thousand won.

11, Deulan-ro 77-gil, Suseong-gu, Daegu


Even in Daegu, a city teeming with salty, spicy, and red foods, tteokbokki stands out with its immense presence. Among them, Yun Ok -yeon Halmae Tteokbokki, with its impressive strong pepper aroma , may look simple at first glance, but it is a highly addictive dish that you find yourself thinking about again long after you've finished eating it. Perhaps that is why it has earned the nickname "drug tteokbokki"โ€”that says it all. As soon as you enter, a savory aroma fills the air. The star of the show is the fried fish cake, slightly puffed up and turning golden brown. Just as they say even the soles of sneakers taste good when fried, the freshly fried fish cake tastes superb.


The ultimate sauce, served casually with a spoonful over the generous broth, is the unique stroke of genius here. It is a DIY style where you can adjust the spiciness by mixing as much as you want, and dipping the fried items in the broth seems to neutralize the flavors considerably. People say that tteokbokki is no longer a food for the common people, but looking at the menu here, where prices barely exceed 1,000 to 2,000 won, I even feel a little guilty, completely disregarding such talk.



Memories of Dongseong-ro, Mijin Bunsik & Jungang Tteokbokki



Mijin Bunsik

Mijin Bunsik is a long-standing fixture in Dongseong-ro that has been there for about 45 years. After CEO Lee Jin-gon opened the business in 1978, his daughter-in-law and youngest daughter took over and have maintained the same consistent taste.

6-1 Dongseong-ro, Jung-gu, Daegu


Dongseong-ro, known as Daegu's Myeongdong. Although its former vibrancy has faded considerably, if asked to name the busiest place in Daegu, I would choose this spot without hesitation. While the area around Suseong Lake features restaurants suitable for family dining with convenient parking, Dongseong-ro is home to snack shops catering to those on a lighter budget. Mijin Bunsik and Jungang Tteokbokki, which anyone who attended school in Daegu unanimously praises as "soul food," are located right here in Dongseong-ro. Mijin Bunsik is notable for its fast turnover. "I've been here quite often," chimes an acquaintance who accompanied me. Having attended high school in Daegu, it was a must-visit spot after sightseeing downtown. Despite the simple menu of gimbap, jjolmyeon, udon, and bibim udon, the small table was always packed with ordered food because no one could pass up a single dish.


Gimbap, with its exquisite savory taste, is impressive for the harmony of flavors, even though it is loosely rolled without the common ingredients like eggs or ham. They say that pairing it with rich and deep-flavored anchovy broth and dipping it in spicy and sour jjolmyeon sauce is a recipe known only to those in the know.



Jungang Tteokbokki

Jungang Tteokbokki is renowned for its exquisite garaetteok made from thick, long rice. It opened in 1979 and has not opened any branches or chain stores, operating only the main branch next to 2ยท28 Park.

81 Dongseong-ro 2-gil, Jung-gu, Daegu


Meanwhile, if you see the longest line in Dongseong-ro, it is highly likely that it is Jungang Tteokbokki . Even though the meal is devoured in an instant compared to the time spent waiting, it is always bustling with people who never forget to stop by whenever they visit Daegu. While waiting after taking a number, you might wonder if it is really worth it for just tteokbokki, but once you receive a plate of spicy and sweet garaetteok tteokbokki and flat dumplings, all your complaints vanish.


It is said that wrapping tteokbokki gently in flat dumplings soaked in rich broth is a delicacy . With the interior constantly crowded, sharing tables is the norm, and people truly unite over tteokbokki, enduring the inconvenience.


If you visit Seomun Market, try Nurunguksu and Eden Gimbap



Eden Gimbap

Starting as a small stall, Eden Gimbap has become a long-standing fixture guarding the entrance of District 5 of Seomun Market for about 38 years. With a diverse menu including not only gimbap but also various types of noodles and ramen, it can truly be called Daegu's representative snack bar.

No. 3, District 5, Seomun Market, 6, Keunjang-ro 26-gil, Jung-gu, Daegu


Seomun Market, once renowned as one of the nation's top three markets, remains a symbolic space where a continuous stream of politicians gathers during election season to gauge public sentiment. True to its reputation as a place that has provided for the daily needs of ordinary people, there is an abundance of food available. Among the many options, the most recommended dish is Nureunguksu . To a city snobby Seoulite like me, it looks like just Kalguksu, but the elders correct me, identifying it as Nureunguksu.


There is no need to search for a famous restaurant; the entire alley is a noodle town in itself. The refreshing anchovy broth and the generous, unlimited refills are an added bonus. The highlight is the thin, chewy, and wide noodles, which are rolled and kneaded by hand. The true taste of Seomun Market's pressed noodles comes from pairing them with a mountain of large cucumber peppers. Another place recommended is Eden Gimbap . While pickled radish is the perfect partner for gimbap, they recommend serving it with napa cabbage kimchi. I initially thought, "Gimbap is just gimbap," but the nutty flavor from the generous amount of sesame salt made me give it a resounding thumbs up.


Here, you can also find the nostalgic gimbap pancakesโ€”usually fried in egg batter for when you felt it would be a shame to just eat them a day laterโ€”under the name 'Egg Gimbap'. As the saying goes, " familiar tastes are the most dangerous," so it is hard to just pass by.





Han Seok-dong

Han Seok-dong, a marketer equipped with a discerning eye who has worked for fashion and beauty brands such as Beanpole , Kuho , and Estรฉe Lauder , possesses a keen eye for recognizing good products better than anyone else. Active on social media under the name #coolishdong , he established a marketing company of the same name after leaving his previous firm and took charge of marketing for the life etiquette brand 'hinok ' . Experiencing diverse cultures without limiting himself to fields such as fashion, beauty, and lifestyle, he is currently building content filled with his unique perspective under the hashtag '#CoolDongCityTour'. Han Seok-dong continues his work of capturing, experiencing, and introducing the very best among good things.



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